
I had to remove the Optical Sensor from my Tron Rotary Controller PCB. It was cracked and needed replaced. So I thought I might as well show how I did it. I was told that this component was very hard to remove, so I figured I should take extra care to make sure I can pull it out without damaging the board.
Tools Required:
- Soldering Iron
- New Solder
- “Solder Sucker”
- Desoldering Braid or “solder wick”
The following needs to be done with each pin of the component
- Flow a slight amount of new solder onto the pin. This will help loosen up the old solder. Don’t put too much on, or it will be drawn down through the PCB hole and lock the component in from the other side.
- Immediately remove the solder with the solder sucker. This is done by removing the soldering iron from the melted solder over the pin, quickly covering the pin and melted solder with the solder sucker, then pressing the button on the solder sucker. This causes the spring action of the solder sucker to suck all of the melted solder away from the pin. If this is done right (which takes a little practice) then there will be little if any solder left over.
- Use the soldering iron to hold a small amount of fresh solder wick over the pin to draw out any remaining solder from the pin
- Finally, GENTLY remove the component. There may still be some sticking of the pin to the contacts, so use the soldering iron to hit any stuck pins until they move freely. This is the toughest part, especially with components like IC’s that have rows of pins and can’t flex.
Here are some pictures that I took:

“Solder Sucker”

“Solder Wick”

Solder Sucker removing solder from hot pin

Using the Solder Wick to remove residual solder from the pin

Close-up of the pins after solder removal

Success! The component has been removed.

Here’s what the component looks like after removal. The pins are in great shape with no damage.
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2 users responded in this post
Hey Jeff,
Nice post.
I’ve been soldering for about 1.5 years now…. I had a solder sucker from Radio Shack that I used occasionally, but never had good results with it. I stuck to using braid for everything. Then, I bought a SoldaPullt DS017:
http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/2920-0019/
It blows the radio shack solder sucker I have away. The difference is incredible. When you use it, you usually won’t need to use any braid afterwards.
If you aren’t familiar with these, if you do end up getting one you’ll notice its huge compared to the one you have. I think the size might help it work better, and you can still get into some pretty tight places with it.
I was amazed at how much better these worked.
That Radio Shack braid in your picture worked great for me. Last time I went to buy some, they changed the packaging AND the braid inside. IMO, the new braid does a horrible job.
I appreciate the feedback! I’ve gone through 3 solder suckers. One from Bob Roberts and 2 from Radio Shack. Haven’t had the opportunity to find a different one. I’m going to need a new one soon, so I’ll check out the DS017. I also need to get a better soldering iron.
I also agree on the braid. The stuff I used last is the newer stuff, and it seems packed too tight to draw in the solder.
I do have a desoldering iron too. It works really good, especially on cap legs during cap kit installation. I don’t like it on smaller components because of the spacing between pins.
These are the best solder suckers Jeff:
https://www.howardelectronics.com/edsyn/solderpullt.html
I have one of the blue deluxe models that I use most all the time, and I have an older anti-static model also.
You’ll still need to use a wick in certain situations, and Jamie is right the new RS wicks suck while the old stuff worked good.
I use these wicks now: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/browse/Braid/3831794
I use both the blue (0.1 width) and yellow (0.05 width).
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